Essays

Cultural criticism and long-form writing about food, drink, and place.

The First Saturday of the Farmers Market Season

On the brief, specific euphoria of Minnesota spring produce and the problem of wanting too much of it at once.

On the Nordic spirit, its Minnesota roots, and why it has taken this long for the local bar culture to catch up.

On what the Minnesota supper club gets right that most restaurants are still trying to figure out.

On amaro, low light, and why Minnesotans drink the way they do from November to April.

On a maligned casserole and the communal table it was built to feed.

On root vegetables, slowness, and the discipline of winter rooms.